January 16, 2022. Free Crochet Pattern. This post does contain Affiliate Links.

Happy New Year!! Let’s make 2022 a great year!!

I am the First Designer for the Blog Hop 2022 Hosted by Crochet Foundry Magazine. What a best way to design a cozy cowl with a hood, easy access for when those temps drop, to keep your ears warm. A perfect addition for all your adventures out and even those colder night adventures as well. Never to disappoint you in the warm factor.

This hooded cowl is quick and easy to work up, for you to be wearing it in no time. Perfect to be worn with any outfit you’re going to be sporting this WINTER season.

Winter Borealis Hooded Cowl is made with a mixture of simple stitches and a littler more intermediate stitch, that creates all the beautiful textures, you will love. Bring it to a total wow factor, for a little knit look in between. Your hood is worked right on to the cowl. You only fancy 1 seam for the hood throughout the pattern.

The color I chose for this design, inspired the name from Aurora Borealis, through the different colors that paint the sky in different shades of green. It’s just a spectacular sight to see. It’s a dream of mine and wanted to capture it in this design.

Difficulty Level …

Beginner +

Yarn ….

I used Furls Wander Yarn. 100% premium acrylic yarn. It’s a Worsted Weight category 4. From the label — “Wander Yarn is Furls Crochet first acrylic yarn. From its airy, soft, satiny, and wide variety of colors, Wander is for fiber artist who love a touch of luxe and easy versatility.” I have literally fallen more in love with this yarn deeper, from wanting to use it!! It just adds softness and squish into my designs, packed with lots of warmth! You will have about 120yds per skein of each beautiful color, to create anything through your inspiration.

I choose the colors from there Palette Pack: Lichen! Which, I can tell you, are all my favorite color shade of green. I used Alabaster, Conifer, Surf, Peninsula and Tundra. They all sure painted the colors of Aurora Borealis.

For this design, you will need about 500 yds in total.

Shop Furls Crochet Wander Yarn Here

Hook …

I had the opportunity of trying my first Furls Alpha Series Hook in Tulipwood. It was the first hook that brought Furls Crochet to life. It’s super lightweight and feels like a feather while you are working away. The ergonomic feature and craftsmanship, makes my hand fall all more in love through each stitch it creates. I used size I/9 (5.5mm) for this design. The wood grain was a neutral touch for this design.

Use a Furls Alpha Series Tulipwood I/9 (5.5mm)or a hook to obtain gauge.

Beautiful Furls Alpha Series Hook shown in Tulipwood.

Shop Furls Crochet Alpha Hooks Here

Furls Lucet Fork …

Have you gotten or used one before? This is my first design that I got to include in my design. It’s super useful and easy to make your I-Cord. You can use any type of yarn with this tool to create your drawstring. It’s ergonomic, through the bottom portion to rest your thumb upon as you are creating your I-Cord. One thing to remember is pull your yarn tight to create a tight look into your I-Cord, to keep a uniform look to your cord. Plus, this tool is beneficial to make straps for garments and bags, also drawstrings for garments or bags, saves you time as well.

Shop Furls Crochet Lucet fork

Notions

Scissors
Tape Measure
Stitch Markers
Product Tag (optional)
Pompoms or Tassels (optional)

Gauge

From Pattern: 11 rows x 15 stitches = 4”

Size/Measurements

Adult Size only

Width: 11.75”

Cowl Length: 11.5”

Cowl + Hood Length: 24.25”

Hood Width: 13.25”

Hood Length: 12.75”

Abbreviations/Stitches Used

Ch — Chain
FHDC — foundation chain half double crochet
R — row or round
SC — single crochet
HDC — half double crochet
DC — double crochet
Camel Stitch
Cross Stitch
Star Stitch
Slst — slip stitch
PM — place marker
** — to be repeated/ special stitch indicator
YO — Yarn Over
FO — Fasten Off

Special Stitches …

~ *HDC Camel Stitch* – to begin this stitch, you will locate your 3rd loop on the back side of previous stitch, it will look a little diagonal, plus it will just be slightly below the back part of the top 2 loops that form a v-shape. Once loop is located, YO, insert your hook into indicated stitch of the 3rd loop, YO, pull up a loop, YO, pull through all 3 loops on your hook. Repeat these steps as indicated in the pattern.

~ *SC Camel Stitch* – to being this stitch, you will locate your 3rd loop on the back side of the previous stitch, it will look a little diagonal, plus it will be slightly below the back part of the top 2 loops that form a v-shape. Once loop as been indicated, insert your hook into indicated 3rd loop, YO, pull up a loop, YO, pull through both loops on your hook. Repeat these steps as indicated in the pattern.

~ *Cross Stitch* – this stitch is created by skipping a stitch and going back into that skipped stitch, to create a cross look. To being this stitch: skip a stitch, YO, insert your hook into indicated stitch, YO, pull up a loop (3 loops on your hook), YO, pull through first 2 loops, YO, pull through last 2 loops, first DC made. Going back into the skipped stitch by going behind the first DC, YO, insert your hook into indicated stitch, YO, pull up a loop (3 loops on your hook), YO, pull through first 2 loops, YO, pull through the last 2 loops on your hook. You completed the stitch and Repeat as indicated in the pattern.

~ *STAR STITCH* – to begin this stitch: Ch3, insert you hook into second Ch from hook and pull up a loop, insert your hook into next Ch and pull up a loop (3 loops on your hook), insert your hook into next stitch and pull up a loop, insert your hook into next stitch and pull up a loop, insert your hook into next stitch and pull up a loop (6 loops on your hook), YO and pull through all 6 loops on your hook and Ch1 to close. Making your 2nd star: insert your hook into the Ch1 and pull up a loop, insert your hook into the last leg stem of the Star and pull up a loop (3 loops on your hook), insert your hook into the same stitch of the last leg of the Star and pull up a loop (4 loops on your hook), insert your hook into the next stitch and pull up a loop (5 loops on your hook), insert your hook into next stitch and pull up a loop (6 loops on your hook), YO and pull through all 6 loops and Ch1 to close. Stitch Complete.

~ *Ending Star Stitch* – this stitch is performed when using up your last stitch of the row and into your Slst of previous row. To begin: you will have 1 loop on your hook, insert your hook into the Ch1, pull up a loop (2 loops on your hook), insert your your hook into the last leg stem of the previous Star and pull up a loop (3 loops on your hook), insert your hook into the same stitch of the last leg of previous Star and pull up a loop (4 loops on your hook), insert your hook into the next stitch and pull up a loop (5 loops on your hook), insert your hook in to the Slst that you joined previous row with (6 loops on your hook), pull through all 6 loops and Ch1 to close. Stitch Complete.

Pattern Notes …

Pattern is written US Crochet Terminology
Ch1’s and Ch2’s at the beginning of the row don’t count as stitches.
The cowl portion of the pattern is worked in joining the rows together with a Slst. The hood portion is worked in turning rows and then seaming the last row of the hood together.
The trim of the hood is worked in turned rows of SC’s, folding it over the drawstrings, to create an opening for the drawstrings, so you pull them tight around your head.
After completing the trim and drawstrings are in placed, you can attach pompoms or tassels to the end of your drawstrings, to add more character.
To get an accurate count on your Star Stitches and including the Ending Star Stitch, they count as 2 stitches.

Now Let’s Get Started ….

R1: To Begin, 90FHDC, after you complete 89FHDC, bring your first stitch up, YO, insert your hook into the previous Ch on your 89FHDC, without pulling up a loop, insert your hook into the first FHDC, pull up a loop through ends to join the ch’s together (3 loops on your hook), YO, pull through the 3 loops on your hook, and join to the 1st HDC, you should have a total 90FHDC. (Alternate: if you’re not comfortable with doing the FHDC, you can start by Ch91, join to your first Ch, make sure you don’t twist your Ch, Ch1 and HDC in each of the 90 ch’s).

R2: Ch1, HDC in the same stitch, *HDC Camel in each of the next stitches, until 1 stitch remains,* HDC in the last stitch. Slst to first stitch to join. (90)

R3: Ch1, SC in the same stitch, *SC Camel in each of the next stitches, until one stitch remains,* SC in the last stitch, Slst to first stitch to join. (90)

R4: Ch2, DC in the same stitch, *Cross in each of the next stitches, until 1 stitch remains,* DC in the last stitch. Slst to first stitch to join. (90)

R5: Ch1, HDC in same stitch and in each of the next remaining stitches. Slst to first stitch to join. (90)

R6: Ch1, HDC in same stitch, *HDC Camel in each of the next stitches, until 1 stitch remains,* HDC in last stitch. Slst to first stitch to join. (90)

R7: Ch1, SC in same stitch, *SC Camel in each of the next 88 stitches,* SC in the last stitch. Slst to first stitch to join. (90)

R8: *Star Stitch* until 1 stitch remains, *Ending Star Stitch* Slst to first stitch to join. (90)

R9: Ch1, skip that first stitch, place 2HDC in the eye of the Star (Ch1 to close the Star) and in each of the remaining 88 stitches. Slst to first stitch to join. (90)

R10: Ch1, HDC in the same stitch, *HDC Camel in each of the next 88 stitches,* HDC in the last stitch. Slst to first stitch to join. (90)

R11: Ch1, SC in the same stitch, *SC Camel in each of the next 88 stitches,* SC in the last stitch. Slst to first stitch to join. (90)

R12: Ch2, DC in the same stitch, *Cross in each of the next 88 stitches,* DC in the last stitch. Slst to first stitch to join. (90)

R13: Ch1, HDC in the same stitch and in each of the next 89 stitches. Slst to first stitch to join. (90)

R14: Ch1, HDC in same stitch, HDC Camel in the next 88 stitches,* HDC in the last stitch. Slst to first stitch to join. (90)

R15: Ch1, SC in same stitch, *SC Camel in the next 88 stitches,* SC in the last stitch. Slst to first stitch to join. (90)

R16: *Star Stitch* until 1 stitch remains, *Ending Star Stitch* Slst to first stitch to join. (90)

R17-32: repeat R’s 9-16.

R33-35: repeat R’s 9-11.

FO and weave in your ends.

Splitting for the Hood …

From where you FO, count 28 stitches on both sides and place a PM in the next stitch, skip the joining Slst from the last row of the Cowl. You should have 56 stitches in between the PM’s.

Hood …

R1: Attach your yarn in the stitch after the PM, Ch1, SC in same stitch and in the next 27 stitches, Sk the Slst, SC in the next 28 stitches (56)

R2: Ch1 and turn, SC in the same stitch and in the next 55 stitches (56)

R3: Ch2 and turn, DC in same stitch and in the next 22 stitches, 2DC in the next stitch, DC in the next 2 stitches, 2DC in next stitch, DC in next 2 stitches, 2DC in the next stitch, DC in the next 2 stitches, 2DC in the next stitch, DC in the next 23 stitches (60)

R4: Ch2 and turn, DC in same stitch and the next 23 stitches, 2DC in the next stitch, DC in the next 2 stitches, 2DC in the next stitch, DC in the next 4 stitches, 2DC in the next stitch, DC in the next 2 stitches, 2DC in the next stitch, DC in the next 24 stitches, (64)

R5: Ch2 and turn, DC in same stitch and in the next 24 stitches, 2DC in the next stitch, DC in the next 3 stitches, 2DC in next stitch, DC in the next 4 stitches, 2DC in the next stitch, DC in the next 3 stitches, 2DC in the next stitch, DC in the next 25 stitches (68)

R6: Ch2 and turn, DC in the same stitch and the next 25 stitches, 2DC in the next stitch, DC in the next 3 stitches, 2DC in the next stitch, DC in the next 6 stitches, 2DC in the next stitch, DC in the next 3 stitches, 2DC in the next stitch, DC in the next 26 stitches (72)

R7: Ch2 and turn, DC in the same stitch and in the next 26 stitches, 2DC in the next stitch, DC in the next 4 stitches, 2DC in the next stitch, DC in the next 6 stitches, 2DC in the next stitch, DC in the next 4 stitches, 2DC in the next stitch, DC in the next 27 stitches (76)

R8: Ch2 and turn, DC in the same stitch and in the next 27 stitches, 2DC in the next stitch, DC in the next 4 stitches, 2DC in the next stitch, DC in the next 8 stitches, 2DC in the next stitch, DC in the next 4 stitches, 2DC in the next stitch, DC in the next 28 stitches, (80)

R9: Ch2 and turn, DC in the same stitch and in the next 28 stitches, 2DC in the next stitch, DC in the next 5 stitches, 2DC in the next stitch, DC in the next 8 stitches, 2DC in the next stitch, DC in the next 5 stitches, 2DC in the next stitch, DC in the next 29 stitches (84)

R10-24: Ch2 and turn, DC in the same stitch and in each of the next stitches (84)

After completing R24, FO and weave in your ends.

Seaming Hood ….

Turn your Cowl inside out, so that you’re on the WRONG SIDE. Take the last Row of the hood and fold it together. Pick any seam you would like (I chose to use the SC seam, for the strong hold it provides). Attach your yarn in the 1st and 84th stitch and Ch1, SC in the same stitch by going through both sides of the hood. Repeat SC across until the end (Following this sequence: 2nd and 83rd, 3rd and 82nd, 4th and 81st, etc.). You will have 2 stitches left at the end, SC through the last 2 stitches. FO. Weave in your ends and turn your cowl back inside out.

Drawstrings …

Grab your Furls Lucet Fork and holding 2 strands, make an I-Cord measuring ~42” you can watch a video tutorial HERE

If you don’t have a Lucet Fork you can make a CH measuring ~42” in length and than, in the 2nd Ch from hook Slst and in each remaining Ch.

You can also make an I-Cord here, by watching this video tutorial HERE

Hood Trim ….

We will be creating a flap for the drawstring of the hood.

We will be working in turned rows to create the flap.

To Begin: Attach your yarn into the first SC where you begin creating the hood with a Slst and Ch1 and SC in the same stitch, SC in the Ch1 of 1st row of hood, SC into the SC of next row of the hood, place 2SC into each of the DC and Ch2 up the hood to the seam, place a SC into the hood seam, place 2SC into each DC and Ch2 down the hood, SC in the Ch1, SC into the SC, SC into that last SC of the 1st row of the hood, Slst into that same stitch, (95)

Hood Flap …

R1: Ch1 and turn, sk the Slst, SC into the next stitch and in each of the next stitches, (95)

R2-6: repeat R1. FO!!

Cut a long piece of yarn to sew the flap over the drawstring. When sewing the flap, you are creating a opening for the drawstring, so that part should be on the inside of the hood. To begin, lay the drawstring in the middle of the flap bring the last row to the first row of the flap (not the trim). Start sewing up the hood and down the other side of the hood, FO and weave in your ends.

Optional: you can add pompoms or tassels to the end of your drawstrings.

You have completed making your WINTER BOREALIS HOODED COWL. I hope you enjoyed making this. I hope will keep warm and give you all the cozy hugs, needed all winter lob

If you stumble upon any questions or concerns while making this, please do reach out to me, I am hear you help, my email: coltystitched@gmail.com or Contact Us!!!

Feel free to share your new Winter Borealis Hooded Cowl on Social media and tag me — IG: @coltystitched, Facebook: @coltystitched, use these hashtags: #coltystitched and #winterborealishoodedcowl. To see your makes and share what you make.

Disclosure ….

Please don’t copy or paste any portion of this pattern in parts or full, as it’s strictly prohibited. Please don’t recreate, redistribute, or sell this pattern off as your own, as it belongs to us. Please don’t reuse, recreate or sell any photos contained in this pattern, off as your own, as they belong to us. Don’t translate this pattern in another language without permission from us. Don’t use this pattern for any educational purposes without having permission from us. You may sell what you make from this pattern, but I do encourage you link back to our website: mmcrochet.com to credit us as the designer.